Wasanbon toh is presently produced only in the Tokushima
and Kagawa prefectures. It contains "Chikutoh",
which is cultivated in the northern and southern parts of the Asan
mountains bordering these prefectures.
That which is produced in the southern part of the mountains on
the Tokushima side is called "Awa wasanbon toh." To be
more precise, Awa wasanbon toh is produced in the
town of Kamiita-cho in Itano county of Tokushima prefecture.
Although sugar cane is generally considered to grow only in tropical
areas, it also grows well in Shikoku. The sugar cane used for Wasanbon
toh called "Chikutoh" is different in appearance and taste
from other sugar cane cultivated in the southern countries such
as Taiwan or Cuba.
The production center of Awa wasanbon toh is located in a basin
that extends from the Asan mountains to the south. It is a sunny,
well drained location. Because of the good drainage, it was difficult
to grow rice during the Edo period, when there was no irrigation
system.
It is said that when an ascetic monk passed through Tokushima,
he told the local people that sugar cane was produced in Kyushu
in soil similar to theirs. A young man named Maruyama Tokuya, who
had heard about this, went alone to Hyuga(present Miyazaki prefecture)
and returned having mastered the way to produce sugar cane. This
is said to be the origin of sugar cane cultivation in Tokushima.
The history of cultivating sugar cane in Japan started during the
Edo period when Shugun Tokugawa Yoshimune encouraged its production
all over Japan. It seems that since that period "Chikutoh",
the ingredient in wasanbon toh, has remained the best suited kind
of sugar cane for the soil there.
Approximately 230 years has past since cultivating sugar cane first
began in Tokushima. It seems that sugar cane was being cultivated
in several places in western Japan before the war. Due to its disadvantage
in terms of productivity thin "Chikutoh" is seldom cultivated
except in the production of wasanbon toh.
Blessed with lucky geographical condition of sunny, well drained
basin on the south side of the mountain range, farmers have increased
gross area for cultivating sugar cane. Harvesting is intentionally
delayed until about December in order to increase the sugar content
of the sugar cane. Long ago, farmers harvested the sugar cane after
the regular harvest season, squeezed it, and boiled down the juice
to make sugar. At that time only "Shiroshita toh(coarse sugar)"
was produced, which required only simple production facilities.
Later, the technique of refining coarse sugar to make white sugar
was invented. Thus began the production of Wasanbon toh. The
method of refining sugar by using water is quite rare in the
world. It is not known how this method was discovered.
One story is that while carrying "Shiroshita toh" in
the barrel, a person dropped it into a river by mistake. When the
person picked it up, the top part had turned white from being washed
by water. This is, however, only a story. The technique of squeezing
out the syrup using the principle of leverage is obviously one application
of equipment used for extracting sake lees called "Oshifune"
at sake shops in those days.
Having acquired this technique, farmers who had the facilities
for refining sugar started to buy sugar cane other farmers and began
to produce and sell wasanbon toh under commercial names. This is
the origin of the sugar manufacturing industry.
At one point Awa wasanbon toh's production spread widely and became
a special product of Tokushima prefecture that rivaled the other
special product, "Ai(indigo)". After the war, however,
production decreased rapidly as cheap refined sugar began to be
imported from places such as Taiwan. Although wasanbon toh is no
longer used as ordinary sugar, its unique flavor and taste make
it indispensable in Japanese sweets. It is still produced as special
domestic sugar for Japanese sweets. As quality is more and more
sought after, only the best centers for sugar cane cultivation continue
to produce.
The production centers of Awa wasanbon toh are at present the
towns of Kamiita-cho and Donari-cho in Itano county in Tokushima
prefecture. With people's increased concern for quality foods, wasanbon
toh has recently gained fame. It is sold in some department stores
as a luxury food. On the other hand the aging farming population
and the decreasing number of farming households is likely to lead
to the further reduction in sugar cane production. |